My Adventure Trip
Fifteen years back, if anybody had asked me if I’d known about a country called Kosovo, I would have stared at them blankly and so would you, I bet. Seven years later, all that changed because I found myself in Kosovo, living and breathing its fresh mountain air.
Despite its recent noteworthiness, Kosovo has always been around and has been marked by a long succession of wars. The Kosovo war, famously remembered for allowing Kosovo to become an independent country was marked with heinous war crimes and a ten year long occupation by the United Nations and its NATO forces suppressing the Serbian forces. I was fortunate or unfortunate depending on the point of view, to be there during the war. Kosovo, despite the war and turmoil, is a very beautiful and picturesque place full of snow-capped mountains, flowing streams and lush green, grassy fields. Of course, back then, to even visit the place you had to be either the president of a country or have a UN stamped passport. But now, post-war, the newly formed country of Kosovo has been promoting tourism to the country.
Kosovo is a predominantly Muslim country. Unlike most Muslim countries like Saudi Arabia, Pakistan etc., the religious state of society is kept to a minimum. The citizens do practice it, but it does not affect their daily lives in an extreme way. During the month or Ramzan, the citizens of Kosovo wake up at 3 ‘o’ clock to eat, drink Turkish tea, pray and then go back to sleep. They break their fast promptly at 5 ‘o’ clock sharp in the evening but apart from this the day goes on as normal. The religious zeal pervasive in Islam dominated parts of the world is not present here and it is encouraging to see that the locals are very curious about other religions.
While there are plenty of riots in Kosovo brought about by its independent status as a country, very few of these riots that are about religion. The people are friendly, helpful and welcoming to tourists, although they are a bit overenthusiastic, as Kosovo is a country that does not get many visitors. While this is a welcome change, it gets a bit tiring after a while, especially when children follow you around like you were the pied piper of Hamlin. The people are inquisitive and frank but also courteous and polite. Rest assured, a simple query for directions will not only get you the most accurate, blow-by-blow way to your destination, but also enquiries about your health, your family’s health and a general discussion on the current state of affairs. Kosovo is one of the few places where racism is at a minimum, because the war which claimed so many lives was instigated by it. There is still discrimination towards the minority groups in terms of housing, employment, education, health and social welfare despite their planned integration into the Kosovar society.
As a whole, Kosovo is landlocked by Macedonia, Albania and Montenegro to the south, west and north-west respectively. The remaining area is bordered by the central Serbian region. Kosovo’s capital and largest city is Pristina, which holds the only airport, military controlled. Kosovo’s demographic is divided into Albanian, Serbian, Turkish, Gorani and Roma. The highest population is of Albanians, but there are also Turks, Gorani and Roma folk mixed in. The Serbian population is mostly concentrated toward the north where Kosovo is bordered by Serbia.
Though the official languages of Kosovo have been deemed to be Albanian and Serbian because over 80% of the populace can speak it, the language most commonly preferred by the locals remains Turkish. Even the food in Kosovo is predominantly Turkish. Burak, is a type of baked roll made with flour rather than wheat, much like the Indian naan. However, unlike the naan, the burak is generally stuffed with meat, cheese and other stuffing. While the actual Turkish word for bread is ekmek, burak is a colloquial term given to the dish. It is eaten hot and without any dip or side. A word of advice: to go to Kosovo and fully enjoy the food there, being a non-vegetarian is a must as there isn’t much in the way of a vegetarian diet. Kosovo’s staple diet consists of beef, mutton and chicken along with eggs and fish. As the majority of its population is Muslim, there are not many shops that sell pork. Kosovo has had a history of wine production and produces both red and white wines. The wines most commonly produced are Reds – Pinot Noir, Merlot and White – Chardonnay. Kosovo is currently generating revenue by wine exports to USA and Germany.
The music in Kosovo though varied, is mostly Albanian and some Serbian. It is mostly folk and uses the çifteli, which is a mandolin like string instrument used in Albanian music. The Serbian uses a gusle another stringed instruments. However, Kosovo also has many classical and traditional forms of music.
The climate in Kosovo is continental with warm, pleasant summers and cold, snowy winters. The temperature can go as low as -15 degrees during the coldest days. For visiting purposes, it would be ideal to visit Kosovo during the months of April through August, which spans the spring, summer and autumn seasons. If visiting in winter, pack warm clothes, thick jackets and appropriate footwear. There is very minimal rain in Kosovo. If you want to prepare for all possibilities then pack an umbrella.
Travelling within Kosovo is easy as there are plenty of cabs. However, not many people speak English and it is advised to carry an Albanian to English dictionary. Also carry a torch as there are frequent power outs. The public transport isn’t quite up to the mark yet, but the taxis are inexpensive.
The popular places to visit include the Mirusha Waterfall of the Driniriver, which during summer is a scene of picturesque beauty. The road leading to the waterfall is narrow and winding and reaching there is an adventure in itself.
The Peć Patriachy is a beautiful monastery with many spectacular paintings. Conservative dressing is a must for all those wishing to visit. Further down the road from the PećPatriachy is the Rugova Gorge. It is a canyon which has extremely steep walls reaching up to 300 meters.
The Gjakova Old Bazaar is a very beautiful old “shopping center” from 17th century. It was burned down during the war in 1999 and reconstructed recently. Also, in the center of the bazaar is located an old mosque that was built in the 15th century.
The Mitrovica Bridge is an interesting symbol of the division of the population in Kosovo. This bridge is the dividing line between Serbs and Albanians in Mitrovice/Mitrovica. It will almost always be safe to approach the bridge and look at it, although the French soldiers who guard it may not let you cross if the political situation is worse than average (average not being so good).
Kosovo is also home to a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Decani Monastery. This orthodox monastery from the 13th century is one of the most important monasteries of the Serbian Orthodox Church in Kosovo. Famous for its elegant and peculiar architecture, it successfully mixes western and eastern church building elements to form a particular hybrid style only known on the territory of old Serbia. This monastery is particularly noted for some of the world’s finest medieval frescoes adorning its walls. Gračanica Monastery, another UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of the most beautiful examples of Serbian medieval (14th c.) ecclesiastical architecture. This monastery was built by the Serbian king Milutin in the serbo-byzantine style, reportedly its shape being inspired by a cloud. It is noted for its frescoes, and it is the only medieval Serbian monastery found in an urban setting complete with an old school and archives.
Prizren is the most historical city in Kosovo and has plenty of examples of beautiful Islamic architecture. Novo Brdo was mentioned in the historical documents as early as 1326. Novo Brdo was a metropolis at the time, with a huge medieval fortress built on the top of an extinct volcano cone, the remains of which can be visited today, and residential sections sprawling all around. In the outer wall of the fortress, a large cross is visible, built into the stones. The castle, or fortress, was thought at one point to have dated back to the Byzantine Empire.
The easiest way to reach Kosovo is to take a flight from any international airport to Vienna, then a connect to Zurich and then fly to Pristina after an overnight stay. Alternatively, you can take a flight to either Albania or Macedonia and then drive down to Pristina. These modes are generally the most preferred so as to avoid Serbia completely as the Serbians do not grant exit or entry to a person bearing a passport stamped with a Kosovo visa.
Varanya Vijaykumar
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